I made up this KWICK SEW raglan hoody pattern as as a gift for my husband when I shrank his favourite sweatshirt. I changed a few things up, made option A but added the hood from view B and I’m really happy with the results.
I liked working with this pattern it’s a quick and easy sew if you are familiar with an overlocker/surger. I used my Janome 6234XL overlocker for every seam apart from the hood facing.
Here’s how I made up the pattern step by step, I’m hoping this is useful if you are thinking of using this pattern or looking to make a unisex sweatshirt or hoody.
Like I’ve said I made this one for my husband who is average build so I cut a size LARGE and used 130cm fleece backed jersey fabric (93cm wide) and matching ribbing from Neotrims in colour ‘school burgundy’.
Amends – I made a couple of adjustments, making view A but adding the hood from B. I also added 1″ to the length of the cuffs for a nice long wristy and changed one of the recommended stitches on the hood which you’ll see below.
- Always lay out your pattern pieces before committing to a layout to cut
- Fold down sizes on your pattern to make it reusable
- Don’t forget to mark notches
- Double check grain and stretch direction when laying your pattern
Here’s how I made the garment:
Note I’ve added the pattern instruction steps in brackets for reference.
1. (A1) Add sleeves to front body – be sure to determine front from back sleeve edge to avoid mistakes! Notice front edge is short than the back. Using an overlocker allow the blade to just shave the raw edge for a clean finish.
2. (A2) Attach sleeves to back body at raglan seam edge
3. (A5) Join front to back RST (right sides together) at side and sleeve seam. Match any notches and underarm joining seam. Stitch all the way from bottom hem to sleeve cuff
4. (A6) Join raw edges of waistband, my ribbing was tubular so I only had to join one end.
Fold ribbing length ways to hide seam allowance at join. Fold and mark main body at center front and back. Fold and mark waistband in fourths to help you match to body sides and center to distribute waistband to body evenly (I like to use wonderclips) rib is very stretchy and this helps.
TIP – ensure you are joining to the RIGHT side of main body so seam allowance hides inside when joined!
5. (A7) CUFFS I always add an inch to the cuffs depth for a nice long wristy. Join raw edges of one cuff then attach to right side of sleeve. Stretch to fit when sewing.
TIP -I like to sew with the ribbing on top so I have the garment inside out when sewing
As I said above I wanted the hood from view B so I jumped to the hood instructions as my final step.
6. (B6) Join hood pieces RST down top and back edge.
Note: Pattern instructions tell you to overcast the outer raw edge of hood facing, however I preferred a more simple stitch visible on the outside so I serged/overlocked the raw edge and then used a straight stitch (length 4) to secure the facing back (I wouldn’t usually use a straight stitch with jersey but the hood does not need to stretch.)
Notch center front and center back neck to help insert hood. Clip or pin hood in place and join to neckline.
And that’s it I am done! I am so happy with the results my fleece is super soft and comfortable, truth is I have to tackle him to get the damn thing in the wash now so I will definitely need to make more, although its my turn next.